I have a confession. I’m a pop music fan and the closest I’ve ever come to opera is watching Popstar To Opera Star. Shamefully, I mostly associate opera singing with that very irritating Go Compare man with the twirly moustache.
So I tried to keep my favourite romantic scene from Pretty Woman in mind – Vivian’s first date with Edward at the opera – when we spent the weekend in Cyprus at an opera festival.
Paphos, on the south west coast, has thrown its hat into the ring to become a European Capital of Culture and its Aphrodite Festival is part of the bid.
This is the 13th year of the festival and each year an outdoor auditorium is built next to the medieval castle in the harbour.
This year’s was The Tales of Hoffmann, by Offenbach, a fun but baffling story about a lovelorn poet who keeps wooing unsuitable women.
In one scene the hapless chap tries to chat up a mechanical doll who resembles a woman. The singers, the beautiful setting and the orchestra were fabulous.
But we were lucky to be seated behind a woman cooling her husband with a large fan.
The humidity soon began to take its toll, as did the length of the four-hour performance and the two intervals when just one would have sufficed.
On the plus side, the opera was translated into English with subtitles beamed onto the side of the stage so I had more chance of following the story. In future, though, I think I’ll stick to watching has-beens on the telly.
We stayed at The Annabelle Hotel, one of three Thanos luxury beach hotels on the island.
Neighbouring hotel The Almyra, formerly Paphos Beach Hotel, was once tired in comparison to its sophisticated sibling The Annabelle.
But seven years ago French architect Joelle Pleot and her team – whose previous projects have included a house for Karl Lagerfeld and Coco Chanel’s boutique in Paris – gave it a chic and modern revamp.
Now they stand side by side like glamorous sisters with different styles and attitudes.
Annabelle is the sister for the, let’s say, older guest with its opulent furnishings. And Almyra is the groovier, fashionable younger sibling.
The Grecian-style, luxurious decor of Annabelle’s rooms looked more inviting. Sometimes Almyra’s minimalist style could appear unfurnished or unfinished, as though the cushion covers were missing. Almyra has the Almyraspa, which Annabelle guests can also use. A spa treatment was much needed after trying to find it – no easy feat if you are not staying at the Almyra.
A very friendly receptionist had to show me the way after I gave up wandering through a car park. Keeping the hotel minimalist obviously extends to putting a sign on the door.
The traditional Cypriot sugar and carob all-over body scrub – using a sticky syrup known as Cyprus’s black gold – isn’t for the shy or self-conscious, especially overlooking empty tennis courts which I worried would suddenly become occupied.
But I was assured afterwards that it isn’t possible to see into the spa.
Between them the hotels have eight restaurants and bars in abundance. Or you could book a private barbecue on the beach.
For lunch we enjoyed the authentic taste of Cyprus at Annabelle’s Medierraneo restaurant. Mourthwatering Meze platters are followed by an appropriately named Honeydream baklava dessert.
Almyra’s al fresco and achingly stylish Notios restaurant boasts an exciting, sophisticated concept called Omakase, meaning ‘trust the chef’ in Japanese.
Chef Ilias Kafalis, who I’m told is quite the celebrity in Cyprus after appearing on the reality show Top Chef, loves to experiment and has created a series of surprise taster menus, ranging from five to nine courses, fusing Japanese food with Mediterranean flavours. Sushi fans will love it.
My favourite was the little pillows of lobster encased in pasta.
Annabelle has a large swimming pool weaving through tropical gardens. And Almyra has a child-friendly pool covered by a canopy to ward off the sun.
Stepping outside the Annabelle and Almyra, we found nothing else to tickle our fancy except a pleasant walk along the harbour to the fort.
Our hearts sank when we spotted the vivid blue sign of Pizza Express – a stark reminder of home – looming over the a collection of pavement cafes, bars and tourist shops.
And we made a note to steer clear of Bar Street, which is exactly how it sounds.
But Paphos Castle, once a part of the medieval defence wall of Paphos, is a popular tourist destination and is well worth a look by day and night.
A seven-night stay in a sea-view double room at The Annabelle, including breakfast, return economy flights with Easyjet from Manchester and private return transfers cost from £1,260 per person.
For further information, please contact Elegant Resorts on 01244 897515, or visit www.elegantresorts.co.uk
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